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A cross marks graves in eastern Congo that were photographed in 1997.A Tutsi soldier, who asked not to be identified, alleged Rwandan Hutu refugees were secretly buried here after being beaten, hacked or shot to death by rebel alliance soldiers.Twitter: @Access2Rachel I went back to Rwanda last month for the first time in almost 20 years.I was head of mission for Médecins Sans Frontières/Doctors Without Borders (MSF) during and after the 1994 Rwandan genocide. Most of the corpses were headless, except for those victims who had paid a dollar to be murdered with a bullet.Members of the LGBT community in Rwanda are coming out of the shadows after dark days of attacks and harassment early this year.In February, a Rwandan TV journalist proposed marriage to her same-sex partner and they publicly prepared for a wedding abroad.The mass graves are hidden in the darkening shade of a hard-to-reach banana plantation, high up a mountain above the cloud line, at the end of a treacherous dirt track slippery with mud and animal dung.Those who survived say they did not go to the meeting called by Rwandan soldiers.

My memories of a post-apocalyptic ghost town, of bullets, blood and hastily dug mass graves, the air heavy with death and fear, seemed a lifetime ago.His murder triggered a devastating genocide that saw almost a million people, mostly Tutsis, brutally murdered by the Hutu majority in the space of 100 days.Today's Rwanda is almost unrecognisable from the ghostly shell that survived the relentless wave of brutality.The former MSF hospital in Ruhengeri, northwest of Kigali, is now a beautiful, bustling referral facility, treating a normal range of human ailments.No more patients with war wounds and landmine injuries, like those who came to us in the days and weeks following the genocide.

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